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Portrait Ines

 

 

Ines Papert

Born in 1974, Wittenberg, Germany 

Profession/Activity: Ice&Rock Climber, Alpinist.

What is important for you in the life? Climbing of course, but also sharing the experience in the mountains with good friends. They are a huge part of my adventures. And my 12 years old son Emanuel, who joins me sometimes on trips and expeditions.  

What is your favourite place in the world? There are so many... Everytime I am away from home, I think...there is the best place...when i am back home, I am convinced, this is the best place (I live in Berchtesgaden) but I love the Rocky mountains and Baffin island in Canada, great playground for climbing in rock and ice.

What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? Freeride- skiing, mountain- and trail biking.  

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of which you are very proud: I am proud that I won the ice climbing worldchampionship 4 times but I am happier about some first ascents, for example : Kwangde shar 6319m (himalayas/Nepal) Into the wild M12 in the canadian rocky mountains, Scharze madonna 8a+ at my home place, a mulitpitch rock route on Untersberg Baffin island, new route on mount Asgard in 2012, 1200 m long and sustained 5.11+ Lots of new routes in norway during the winter 2012. And some repeatitions Eiger northface: symponie de liberte 8a cima grande northface : camiotto pellisier

More information: http://ines-papert.de

 

 

 

 

photo rolando 

 

 Rolando GARIBOTTI

I was born in Italy in 1971 but soon my family moved away, spending a couple of years in Brazil before moving to Bariloche, Argentina in 1978. Culturally I am Argentine although legally I am not. Bariloche is the town I consider my “home town” but I have not lived there since 1991. As an adult I spent over 15 years living in North America and now I split my time between the Dolomites and the town of El Chaltén in southern Patagonia.

Profession/Activity: Since 1996 I have made a living as a mountain guide, having worked in almost every continent, from Antarctica to Alaska and from Kenya to Vietnam by way of the Alps. For years I made much of my living from photography and have also worked as a rigger in many film documentaries and commercials.

What is important for you in the life? Having a sense of purpose, having dreams, regardless of what they are, is certainly what is most important to me in life. I was lucky to find a passion early on. Since then that passion for the mountains and climbing has shifted and changed, but has remained a major driving force. These days any contact with the natural environment gives me satisfaction.

What is your favourite place in the world? Over the years I have developed strong bonds with a number of places. The area of Refugio Frey in Cerro Catedral outside of Bariloche was the first. In the small granite spires that surround the Frey hut I grew up as a person and as a climber. Later in North America places like Yosemite, Eldorado Canyon and especially the Tetons became central in life. The latter was a place where I had the luxury of living a second childhood, guiding and running around in a group of mountains that I find very appealing. Since the early 1990s southern Patagonia has shaped much of who I am. It is hard not to be inspired by peaks such as Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. The climbing is very good, challenging yet tame enough to enjoy oneself without being overly burdened by objective dangers.

What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? Photography and writing have been important hobbies for quite sometime. Running was a major driving force, but tired joints forced me away from it over a decade ago. Recently I have rediscovered biking and that has become an almost daily hobby. I should say that work guiding is also a hobby, in the sense that it is something that I enjoy as much as any purely personal pursuit.

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of you are very proud. In the early 1990s, being a visiting foreign climber I was proud to have several speed records in El Capitan, in Yosemite, for routes such as The Triple Direct, The Shield, The Aquarian Wall and Sunkist. In 2000 I set the record for a ten peak link-up called the Grand Traverse in the Tetons, Wyoming, a record that still stands. Around that same time Steve House and I repeated the Infinite Spur on Mont Foraker, Alaska, in 24 hours. Not long after that Bruno Sourzac and I linked three of Canada's best known waterfalls: Polar Circus, Weeping Wall/Pillar and Slipstream in a 15 hour push. In Patagonia in 1996 Doug Byerly and I did the first complete ascent of the north face of Cerro Fitz Roy in alpine style. Back then climbing such a big face in such a style was a departure. Almost ten years later, in 2005, with Ermanno Salvaterra and Alessandro Beltrami we unlocked a much tried ascent of Cerro Torre from the north. In 2008 with Colin Haley we put a big communal project to rest with the first ascent of the Torre Traverse, the ridge line linking Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. In 2009 Dörte Pietron and I put together pataclimb.com, a guidebook website for the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy massif and in 2012 we published Patagonia Vertical, an expanded and more accurate paper version of the website, the first proper guidebook to the area.

More information: http://pataclimb.com

 

 

 

 

 portrait matteo

 

Matteo Giglio

Born in 1973 in Aosta Valley-Italy

Profession / Activity: Journalist, mountain guide, ski instructor.

What is important for you in the life? Equilibrium, fun, sincerity, love.

What is your favourite place in the world? No one in particular... I like the world in general, many places many differences. If I had to choose: The Alps!

What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? Photography, computer...

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of you are very proud.

North faces trilogy: Matterhorn, Eiger, Grandes Jorasses.

Many new and difficult multipitch sport and trad routes in Aosta Valley, Sicily, Sardinia.

Hardest ice climbing routes in Norway, Colorado, Switzerland, France and Italy.

More information:    www.matteogiglio.it

 

 

 

 

portrait michael

 

Michael (Michi) Lerjen Demjen

Born in 1985 in Swizerland

Profession / Activity: Mountain Guide, Ski and Telemark teacher.

What is important for you in the life? To know that I have a privilege life in which I can live my dreams and see the best places in the world with some of the best people as partners.

What is your favourite place in the world? Hard to say, maybePatagonia, the wine is good, the meat tasty and the mountains are still real, no helicopter, no perfect weather forecast, just still a real adventure!

What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? Skiing and chess, also all sports with a Ball.

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of you are very proud.

It’s very hard to say which is the best; all climbs where good.

All the routes on Matterhorn because is the Mountain I grove up with, West face of Torre because of his beauty, Himalya because of the altitude experience, no I cant say which was the best! I’m not proud of what I climb, I’m happy for all the climbs I could and can do, you can be proud to help other people, I’m just happy to do what I do.

More information:   www.freeride-zermatt.ch

 

 

 

 

 photo Martin

 

Martin Fickweiler

Born in 1977 in the Netherlands.

Profession / Activity: Photographer and climbing adventurer.

What is important for you in the life? I like to explore. Not knowing what to expect makes me more alive in the present time. I believe that experiencing nature through an intense activity like climbing will bring me closer to myself and helps me to understand my true thoughts and feelings en thereby shows me the reason of my existence.

What is your favorite place in the world? The remote fjords and valleys of Baffin Island give everything I want from an adventure: beautiful nature, unclimbed walls and mountains and very authentic local people.

What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? Photography.

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of you are very proud.

First ascents in Algeria, Canada, Greenland, Italy, Peru, Suriname, and the USA. Seven El Capitan ascents of which, The Nose in a Day, Zodiac in winter and Lurking Fear solo. All three Torres del Paine in Patagonia in one season. Crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap in winter. Solo expedition to Sam Ford Fjord /Baffin Island, including an ascent of Broad Peak.

More information: http://blog.martinfickweiler.nl/

 

 

 

 

photo Aurelien

 

Aurélien Païs
Born in 1988 at Clermont-Ferrand - France
Profession / Activity: Worker at height - rope technician.
What is important for you in the life? Friends, Friends and also climbing!
What is your favorite place in the world? I did not travel so much to answer this question, but I can tell that I’m really satisfied in France and particularly in my region: Auvergne.
What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? I’m working! ;-)

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of you are very proud.

Mission impossible 8a Cantobre - France

Big bug / Le Boffi  Aveyron - France

Dinosaure  Seyne - France

Docteur éthique 9a Saint Sauves – France.

 

 

 

 


 photo pedro

 

 Pedro Cifuentes
Born  in 1970 in Madrid, although I live in Cuenca

Profession: Fireman

What is important for you in life? Friends, mountain, respect, travelling, cultures.

What is your favourite place in the world? Patagonia, Cuenca and Yosemite.

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of you are very proud: The Nose, Salathe, Zodiac, The Shield, Regular Half Dome in Yosemite, first Spaniard to climb 3 Torres del Paine in the same season (2008), First traverse of Torre Norte del Paine (solo  - 2012) and opening of a new route called Cuenca es Unica.

More information: http://pedrocifuentes-rab.desnivel.com

 

 

 

 

Profil Riccardo

 

RICCARDO OLLIVERI
Was born in Turin (ITA)  in 1975

Profession: Engineer and mountain Guide

What is important for you in life?   Many things !  Health at first, then mental serenity and the enthusiasm to wake up every day and run to life !  Very important are passions and dreams that give you the power to go ahead and invent, to stay above the average!  Then also sentiments and will to try new challenges anytime!!

What is your favourite place in the world? Uff, hard to say!  Everywhere the landscape becomes a wonderful choreography to playgrounds where to live sport emotions !  Sea or mountains, rock or air….  Everywhere people are not fighting each others!

What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? Since some year I’ve discovered the wind !!  During winter it’s time to snowkite and  kitesurfing  during summer!  Actually in winter season the hobby has turned into part of my job since we have opened a little school”  And… my engineer job, but  I wouldn’t really define it a hobby that substitutes climbing!!

Some of your best climbing achievements, or those of you are very proud: I’ve spent a lot of time in the mountains,  if I count all of it, it may be years!  Half of my life on the mountains!  I’ve been to many countries for climbing on snow, ice and rock.  I’ve always preferred polyvalence more than a single discipline and I’ve beautiful memories of some north faces like Eiger, Jorasses, Cervino e minor mountains like Grand Charmoz, Ailefroide…   Reminds of fantastic multipitches on limestone  in Wenden, Sardegna, on Mt. Bianco granit and Capitan like also on Canadian, Novegian icefalls, above many climbs here at home!  But, among all, the climb that makes me more proud is the one of Turin hills to come back home!


More information: www.mountain-passion.com

 

 

 

 

roberto profile

 

Roberto ROSSI
Born in 1976 in Turin ITALY

Profession: Biologist, Mountain guide.

What really counts for you in life? The health, the serenity, the Love, the Snow, the rock!

What is your favourite place in the world? Where I live... I am very close to the most beautiful mountains of the world which offer us an extraordinary accessibility and in the same way I am very close to a wonderful sea, the Mediterranean Sea!

What are your other hobbies when you’re not climbing? Reading, the sea, biking and also the photography.

Some of your most beautiful realizations, or those of whom you are particularly proud? It is impossible to choose one! And for me it is not a question of a simple list of all the climbing or the descents with the most difficult skis or risked. It is rather a question of all the moments in which I felt really fine and in harmony, with the Nature, with my climbing partner and with my "IO".


More information: www.mountain-passion.com